Kowloon

Hong Kong's most iconic view is that of the neon signs along Nathan Road stretching from Mong Kok to Tsim Sha Tsui, which once made for quite a colourful spectacle at night. However, new safety regulations implemented by the government have resulted in most of these signs being taken down, and the street is today only a shadow of its former self.

• Afternoon tea in the lobby at the Peninsula Hotel is an elegant tradition that enables visitors to savour a little of the grandeur of Hong Kong's colonial past. It is one of the more affordable ways to experience the services of one of Hong Kong's most extravagant hotels. Afternoon tea is served between 2 PM and 7 PM, daily. The dress-code is smart casual.
• Take a walk in
• Shanghai Street runs north-south parallel to Nathan Road and offers an easy to navigate urban transect. Start at the north-side of Kowloon Park and wander up to Langham Place, a modern shopping and hotel complex which is next to Mong Kok MTR station. Along the way you will experience Kowloon in its raw authenticity. This is not your regular tourist trail, but crumbling tenements and small-scale industrial and commercial outfits blur to form an urban landscape that will make you wish that you had brought your camera along.
• • Cricket:
• Kowloon Cricket Club is at 10 Cox's Rd, Jordan but is members only. If you're a cricket player, you can apply to join as a sports member.
• You're never too old for tai chi on the Avenue of the Stars. Free lessons in English M, W-F mornings from 8AM-9AM.
• A section of Portland Street in Mong Kok hosts Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district, with a dizzying assortment of karaoke bars, hostess bars, saunas, brothels and restaurants. This area is frequently the scene from Hong Kong triad films. Great street food and colourful characters can also be found. It's best to go in the evenings when the street is brightly lit with neon. Despite the vice that transpires there, it is perfectly safe to visit anytime — but be careful about taking pictures, as many people will not wish to be photographed. Ride to MTR Mong Kok station and, as you emerge from exit C3, walk southward.

Kowloon is a great place to go for cheap and authentic Chinese, Indian, Nepalese and Thai food. It makes a welcome change from following the sophisticates who dine across the harbour in Soho. However, for those who seriously want to splurge, some of the swankiest restaurants are to be found Kowloon-side.

Notable watering holes:

• • • • • Drinking areas:

• • • • Be wary of entering the girlie bars scattered around the southern tip of Tsim Sha Tsui. Their entrances are usually decorated with photos of women in various stages of undress. Strip bars are not popular with locals for good reason. There are reports of these places being owned by rough people, even triads, and they may place unexpected exorbitant charges on your tab (such as a fee to talk to a girl). They may even escort you to an ATM if you don't have enough cash. The days of Suzie Wong have long passed. These places are very much not-recommended.

Hostess Clubs

If your budget doesn't quite stretch to the Tiffanys, Guccis and Shanghai Tangs of Hong Kong Island, head to Kowloon for more affordable shopping.